Spring Cleaning: Wash Day Routine, Part I of Natural Hair Care Series

When I first made the decision to go natural about 9 years ago, I spent endless hours researching natural hair care in preparation for my big chop. I had been relaxing my hair since childhood and had no idea what my curl pattern would look like, and even less of a clue about how to take care of my hair in its natural state. I excitedly devoted chunks of time watching natural hair care YouTube videos and reading blog posts. I formulated a routine that included many do’s and don’ts that I steadfastly incorporated into my haircare routine such as do NOT use shampoo, do NOT brush your hair, DO use oils on hair, and DO use shea butter. I’d read an article that stated I only needed to trim my hair once every 4 to 6 months and I enthusiastically opted for 6 thinking of all the money I’d save (and save I did at the cost of my hair health!) While I learned helpful tips from many sources that I still include in my hair care routine today, I now understand the importance of continuing to research while listening to my hair when it’s exclaiming with glee or begging me to reexamine the products and methods I’m using.

In December of 2019 my curls, which had once gleamed with health, rebelled into an uncooperative phase, lacking definition and vigor as can be seen below.

I’d been co-washing with DevaCurl and using their styling creams for years when I discovered thousands of DevaCurl customers stated the products have caused hair loss, shedding, breakage, loss of curl pattern, and other hair health woes. Though I don’t think my own hair issues were a result of using DevaCurl, I decided to cease use of the products immediately and I woke up to what my hair had been expressing to me for several months; I needed to do a complete overhaul of my routine.

I took the first step by searching for a new stylist in Portland with an expertise in natural hair styling. After months of looking through stylist’s sites and galleries I chose Rachel Elizabeth Jenkins post viewing her instagram gallery. Rachel is a hair stylist located at Strut, a multicultural salon located in the Fair-Haired Dumbbell building along the Burnside Bridge. Not only is Rachel super sweet and a great stylist, she also takes her time to listen to her client’s hair goals and give personalized hair care advice. Rachel suggested I stop applying concentrated oils to my hair and using products containing shea butter listed high up on the ingredient list. She said while they add sheen they ultimately coat the hair and block hydration. Additionally, most hair products are already compounded with oils among other ingredients so it's not necessary to add more oil on top of that. Having used oil in my hair almost every day of my life and believing it was an essential moisturizer, a “WHAT?!” thought bubble ascended from my head as I sat, mind blown, in the salon chair. However, I decided to forgo oils, set down my trusted whipped shea butter and let my hair be the judge. After a few weeks, the verdict was in and I found my hair was indeed happier and healthier. (Stay tuned for future posts about natural ingredients I use in lieu of oil and shea butter to hydrate my hair on the daily.) Rachel also let me know I needed to be getting my ends trimmed once every 3 months to start and then I could extend to once every 4 months when my hair was in healthier shape. She recommended I try the brand Innersense Organic Beauty.

I pored over reviews and information for hours and found their ingredients are extremely clean, sulfate and toxin free, with product lines formulated to work for cross cultural curl types. It’s always important to me to use products black women with hair textures similar to mine have found beneficial, and I read a large number of overwhelmingly positive reviews authored by black customers. I purchased their 10oz Hydrating Cream Hairbath ($28), 10oz Hydrating Cream Conditioner ($30), and 10oz Quiet Calm Curl Control ($26). All are available in 2oz travel sizes for $9 each if you don’t want to commit to full sizes before testing the waters. While the price point frankly seemed alarmingly high at first glance, Innersense products are highly concentrated and it’s only necessary to use a small amount. Because they’re meant to be used sparingly they last longer than products at cheaper price points and in the long run I don’t feel like I’m overspending.

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My Wash Day Routine

I wash my hair one day a week, alternating between shampooing and conditioning one week and co-washing (conditioner only) the next week. Previously, I exclusively co-washed my hair because I believed the hype that shampooing was too harsh for natural hair but I learned it was an important step to incorporate into my routine because when you don’t shampoo your hair you’re never cleansing your scalp of product buildup.

To start, I wet my hair completely and then emulsify a dime sized amount of the Hydrating Creme Hairbath with my hands.

I massage my scalp in small circular motions using the pads of my fingers and distribute the rest of the product into my hair. I make sure not to use my nails in this process because the friction can cause damage to the hair cuticle.

If I feel like my hair needs more shampoo, I add more water rather than adding more product. Because the products themselves are made with low water content, the addition of the extra water increases the lather of the product.

I thoroughly rinse the Hairbath out of my hair with water and then emulsify one to two pumps of the Hydrating Creme Conditioner into my hands. I apply the conditioner into my hair, and let it sit for 5 minutes.

I detangle my hair once every two weeks. With the conditioner still in my hair I detangle using The Wonderbrush by Curlastic.

The Wonderbrush is specifically designed to glide through naturally curly and kinky hair types with its super flexible rows that move with your hair. I section my hair and then brush through it holding the brush vertically. I then flip the brush and work it through the same section of hair, holding The Wonderbrush horizontally. I’m able to detangle my hair within minutes with minimal shedding. After detangling, I rinse the conditioner out.

I use a small amount of the conditioner as a leave in and let my hair begin to air dry.

When my hair has dried to damp, I distribute a small amount of the Quiet Calm Curl Control throughout and allow it to finish air drying.

As a finishing touch I use the Ultra Smooth Coconut Pick by Cricket to lift my hair at the roots and create more volume.

This is the result:

Perhaps the biggest change I’ve made is integrating mindfulness into my routine. I’d gotten into the habit of ignoring what my hair was visibly screaming at me and attempting to mask the problem by slathering on more of the same products that were no longer working. Now, I take my time to know what is in the ingredients I’m using and how they contribute to my overall hair health. I understand my natural hair journey is called a journey because it is ongoing, and I accept that my hair will continue to teach me how she would like to be treated. The difference now, is that I’m listening.

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